It turned out that this is an impossibility, however. It doesn’t exist. Probably a good thing since it didn’t end well for our friend Blanche.
New Orleans, on the other hand, exists. It more than exists; it yells. It sings. It resonates. And my word, does it feed you! A dear reverfriend of mine took me down to her homeland this past week, and amidst the madness of finishing up papers with a dying computer and a heart and mind all burnt out on theology, we had a grand old time.
I think probably the most appropriate way to sum up the experience is to list the things we consumed in our short stay down there. I worry that if I think too hard about it I might actually keel over; it was somewhat overwhelming and I don’t know that I can emotionally cope with it. However, here goes. I’ll tell you at least some of the items. New Orleans, a survey in Snacks:
1. Alligator Sausage. This was more delicious than anticipated in fact. Best not to think about the alligators themselves, which is somewhat simpler when someone has conveniently mushed them up and made them into a different shape. Incidentally we also went on an alligator-spotting mission but this was aborted because it was ‘cold’ (for cold, read not really very cold but we’re working with different standards.)
2. Red Beans and Rice. Perfection. Nicola requires to learn to cook such ambrosia. That’s all.
3. Po-Boys. Like Hoagies, but better. And I realise you homeland humans don’t actually know either of these words. I recommend you look them up.
4. Fried oysters. Twice. I’d never had an oyster before. But what doesn’t taste good fried? Here is a commonality between Scotia and Louisiana. Probably we should be friends.
5. Red Fish. At Galatoire’s, no less. Like I was Tennessee Williams himself. Brilliant. Love a good literary pilgrimage.
6. Beignets and Cafe au Lait. The kind of snack which you can actually FEEL clogging up your arteries as you consume them. Beignets, for the uninitiated, are like doughnutty deliciousness with a dangerous amount of powdered sugar on top. They are perilous, especially for a first-timer. All kinds of inhalation goes on. Chokey McChokerson. Also, in New Orleans they put chicory in their coffee. Weirdly delicious.
7. Crawfish. Not something I expected to like. But an essential Louisiana experience, apparently, and so clearly it was important that I attended a crawfish boil. Crawfish may or may not be code for crayfish. I think it is. They boil them up with all kinds of spicy deliciousness and corn and tatties (they don’t call them tatties) and then there is a huge ridiculous pile of them and then hopefully someone will teach you how to access the part that you eat. This is very complex and I heard many competing theories from real live southern people. I did not, as such, master the art. Messorama, but wonderful all the same.
8. Chicken Biscuits. Now. We all know about the great biscuit debate. It is not pretty and can threaten friendships. Here is my (I suspect contentious) interpretation of the situation: What I call a biscuit, they call a cookie. Unless I mean a biscuit-for-cheese in which case they say cracker. What I call a cookie, they also call a cookie. What they call a biscuit is vaguely related to a scone. Certainly, it seems to me, it is closer to a scone than what they call a scone, but that’s irrelevant. The actual point is, put chicken in a biscuit and you have a BREAKFAST SENSATION.
9. Snowballs. You can go to a shack thingy and from the shack thingy they dispense Ice. As in frozen water. People pay them for this. On top of the frozen water, they put syrup with flavours. And CONDENSED MILK. I do not know who thought of this. But, skeptical though I am about the value-for-money in this situation, once again it made my tastebuds happy. Especially since it turns out the world is HOT south of the Mason-Dixon line. Sometimes one just needs to eat some ice.
10. Shrimp, Crab, Cookies, Pecan Pie, a slightly out-of-place but amazing Thai meal, Gumbo, Key Lime Pie, Etouffee, Abita Beer (I think 11 varieties!?!), Mint Juleps, “Scones”, Grits and Sausage…. The list goes on. Suffice to say, Nicola LIKES the cuisine of Louisiana.
And the city is beautiful, and a great place just to wander and people-watch. And the weather was perfect. And the papers got done. And flight-based drama earned us $330 dollars each and the ridonkulous experience of flying Newark-Philly. And above all, it was beyond wonderful to spend time with my lovely friend Jenny and meet so many other super fun people. Coming alone to a foreign land has taught me a great deal about hospitality and generosity. I have, much like Blanche, always depended upon the kindness of strangers.
